Just like fashion that is eternally being reinvented, perfumery also works in cycles. And the floral accord is no exception. The very essence of femininity, today floral fragrances are less invasive than in the 1980s, as was the case with Poison by Christian Dior. At the end of the 1990s, floral accords were replaced by clean musky notes with CK One by Calvin Klein and Eau d’Issey by Issey Myake, followed by a revival of chypres before consumers gave in to the trend of sweet fragrances. Almost thirty years later, the floral bouquet is back with a more natural, more delicate and less powerful trail. It is fully expressed using a vintage visual identity in Gucci Bloom by Gucci, as well as in Idole by Lancôme, Libre by Yves Saint-Laurent and even L’Interdit by Givenchy. This trend is part of consumers’ desire to smell the full aroma of the raw materials and their natural qualities in order to reconnect with nature. Does the niche perfumery sector have an influence? Probably, because this sector is developing more and more, while aiming to create high end fragrances. Moreover, it is showing a greater interest in the responsible sourcing of raw materials and their origins for more transparency and with a view to protecting our planet. With a passion for flowers, Symrise master perfumer Émilie Coppermann explains how she likes to express this new floral aspect in her creations. How do you work with floral notes and what is your specific signature? Émilie Coppermann – To avoid creating a classic floral bouquet, I particularly enjoy discovering and playing with different angles in order to fashion something that is original. For example, I use a high concentration of galbanum or lenstic to make it more natural, or even spices, such as ginger or […]
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